Open the book and find:. The inner secrets of your vehicle — what makes it start, run, and stop A step-by-step under-the-hood checklist Advice on buying and using the proper tools Driving techniques to extend the life of your car Eco-friendly tips for saving fuel Helpful illustrations that demonstrate repairs Reproducible Specifications and Maintenance Records The pros and cons of alternative fuels and vehicles About the Author: Deanna Sclar is an acclaimed auto repair expert and consumer advocate.
Sclar lectures internationally on the ecological impact of vehicles and is active in promoting residential solar energy programs. Sclar is also the author of Buying a Car For Dummies. If the Download link is not working, kindly drop a comment below, so we'll update the download link for you.
Tags Cars. Older Auto Repair For Dummies in pdf. Show more. Post a Comment 0 Comments. Popular Posts. The way to tell a good socket wrench set is to look at the number of teeth in the ratchet handle. Most have 20 to 30 teeth.
The really good ones have up to 60 teeth. The more teeth the handle has, the better it can fit into tight places. This is because you have to move the handle only a few degrees to turn the nut as much as a cheaper handle would in many degrees. In other words, a ratchet handle with 24 teeth must be moved 15 degrees to reach its limit. A handle with 60 teeth has to be moved only 6 degrees to turn a nut as far. You can find instructions for using a socket wrench in the section called "Removing spark plugs" in Chapter Torque Frenches A torque wrench, shown in Figure , is designed to tighten a nut, bolt, or screw to an exact degree.
A torque wrench is extremely handy because, until you become familiar with a job, you always run the risk of undertightening or overtightening things. If you're replacing a spark plug and you don't tighten it enough, it will work itself loose and fail to deliver a spark.
If you overtighten a spark plug, you can strip the threads or crack the plug. Similarly, parts that have gaskets can leak if the bolts that hold them aren't tightened enough. But if you overtighten the same bolts, the gaskets will be crushed, causing the fluid to leak anyway. Most really good torque wrenches are expensive, but a cheaper one is good enough to serve your purposes. If you'd rather not spend the money until you're sure that you're really going to like working on your car, borrow a torque wrench just to get the feel of how tight a nut, bolt, or other part should be.
Or you can just forget the whole thing. I've never used a torque wrench; my set of socket wrenches accomplished everything quite well for the work in this book. If you are planning to buy a torque wrench, get one with a slim profile, because torque wrenches are bulky anyway and often don't fit into tight places. If you use a torque wrench, keep the following in mind: Grip a torque wrench well down the shaft not up close to the dial and operate it smoothly.
When tightening a series of bolts, tighten them all just until they're snug. Then go back and tighten them all a bit more. Then go back and tighten them all the way to the torque specifications.
Doing so ensures that the entire part you're tightening is under even pressure, prevents leaky gaskets, and increases the life of the bolt and the part. This and the preceding tips are good to follow when you're using any kind of wrench to tighten anything. Before using a torque wrench, make sure that the nut or bolt turns freely so that the torque wrench gets a true reading of the proper nut tightness.
You can use a lubricant such as WD on the threads and run the nut up and down a few times to free it before using the torque wrench on it.
Adjustable Frenches An adjustable wrench, sometimes called a monkey wrench, is a useful addition to your toolbox. See Figure You probably already have one in the house. You can adjust the jaws to fit a variety of nuts and bolts simply by turning the wheel. I like the very small and medium sizes because they fit into tight spaces easily. Figure An adjustable wrench has many uses. Hammers You may associate hammers solely with carpentry, but they're useful in automotive work as well.
In auto repair, you use a hammer to "sweet talk" something loose like a nut or bolt that's on too tight. You don't use a hammer to whack the tar out of your engine.
Make sure that you use the right kind of hammer. You should have a ball-peen hammer see Figure A carpenter's hammer or claw hammer isn't really designed for auto repair. Chapter 2: The Way to Your Car's Heart Is through Your Toolbox If all you have is a carpenter's hammer and you don't want to buy another one, you can probably make do with it.
Just be sure that the hammer you use doesn't have a loose head. If the shaft isn't securely sunk into the head, the head can fly off and damage your car, you, or an innocent bystander. Claw hammers can also be dangerous because a hard, solid impact can cause the claws to break off, with dismal results.
Pliers Almost everyone has needle-nosed and slip-joint pliers see Figure ; if you rummage through the family toolbox, you'll probably discover that you have them, too. Both types of pliers are useful for auto repair. If you have to buy pliers, the very best kind to get are combination slip-joint pliers. You can adjust these general-purpose tools to several widths with a sliding pin. They usually have a wire-cutting slot built into them as well.
If you're the only person on your block who doesn't possess these, by all means rush out and buy them before dark. Again, they needn't be expensive. Just make sure that they work easily, are made of forged hardened steel, and seem to be well finished.
Adjustable vice-grip pliers are useful for persuading recalcitrant stuff to loosen or twist — if, for example, you round off the edges of a nut so that normal tools won't loosen it.
When set properly, the jaws lock onto a metal part very tightly, and you can pull, push, or twist almost anything with them. How to use pliers A couple ot notes on the iise ot pliers V It you're woikinq on electrical uirinq and dun't want to yet shocked make sum that I k ' handles of your pliers are uoveied with rubboi to msiilHtc thorn IT the handles jre naked metal, slip a length or rubber hose over each handle, leaving the hnse in one piece.
Never use combination slip-joint pliers on nuts rind bolls— they round oil the comers, makmrj them harder to replace Besidus, nuts ana holts arc wnatynu have all your lovely wrenches for Gauqes and Meters Despite the simple principles behind how an engine works if you want the lowdown, head to Chapter 3 , many auto repair tasks require fairly precise adjustments: You put only so much oil into the engine.
You add only so much air to tires. You tighten some nuts and bolts only so tight. You leave a gap of a precise size between spark plug electrodes. Several tools are available to help you determine when enough oil, fluid, air, pressure, or whatever is enough. This section highlights those that are most useful.
Wire, taper, and flat feeler qauqes This section covers tools that you use for "gapping" spark plugs, points on cars with non-electronic ignition systems , and valves. These tools are very inexpensive — some stores even give them away as premiums. Although I usually discuss specialized tools in the chapters that call for them, I want to mention these now so that you can pick them up while you're at an auto supply store buying other stuff: Wire and taper feeler gauges: You use these gauges for gapping spark plugs see Figures and Gapping simply means sliding the proper-sized wire or taper gauge between the spark plug electrodes to make sure that the surfaces are the proper distance apart.
Doing so ensures that the spark can jump across the gap with the proper intensity. Chapter 2: The Way to Your Car's Heart Is through Your Toolbox v0 Flat feeler gauges: You use these gauges to adjust valves and ignition contact points, relatively simple jobs that are impossible to do properly without a feeler gauge see Figure Look for these gauges as part of a set of tools — or as freebies in auto parts stores — before you buy them separately.
Figure Wire feeler gauges. Figure A taper feeler gauge. A2 Part I: Getting Started. Figure A flat feeler gauge. Cars with electronic ignitions don't need tune-ups, and they require special expensive tools for adjustments. If your car has an electronic ignition, forget about buying a feeler gauge for gapping points. You can consult your owner's manual to see whether your car's ignition is simple enough to adjust yourself and what tools you'd need, but chances are that you'll be happy to have a professional maintain the system for you.
The good news is that electronic ignitions usually don't require adjusting if they're set correctly in the first place. Compression qauqes You use compression gauges, shown in Figure , to check the pressure that builds up in each cylinder as your engine runs. These gauges also reveal worn or damaged piston rings and valves. If your vehicle is new, you probably won't have this problem for some time, but if you have an older or secondhand vehicle, this easy-to-use gauge is a good investment.
It can help you spot trouble and save money. The screw-in kind is easiest to use but usually costs a bit more. Work Lights Whether you plan to work on your car in your home garage, in your driveway, at the curb near your house, or in the auto shop at a local school, you'll find that the lighting will be inadequate once you get under the hood — or under the car, if you're that adventurous.
A work light can provide all the illumination you need and enable you to shine the maximum amount of light right on the work area and not in your eyes see Figure Figure A work light. When you shop for a work light, be sure to get one that has a protective cage around at least half the bulb and a cord that's long enough and properly insulated. Go for at least a foot cord.
Lights with shorter cords are cheaper, but if you need to buy an extension cord to get the light to your car, you may end up spending more in the long run. Also look for the Underwriter's tag to be sure that you're getting quality.
The typical work light cage has a hook at the top so that you can hang the light inside the hood of your car or on a nearby part.
The hook is very handy, but don't hook the light to anything that carries electricity!. You'll find that a work light is useful for a variety of home repairs and for outside work at night, but if you're going to be working far from an electrical outlet, you may need a long extension cord in addition to a work light. Luckily, neither a cord nor a work light is an expensive item.
You may also want to consider a work light that gets its power from your car's battery. I've also seen portable battery-powered fluorescent lanterns that are useful for night work and for camping.
Jacks Most new cars come with a jack to be used when changing tires. If you have a secondhand car, or if your jack has been lying around neglected, you may need to buy one. If you think that you need a new jack, you can buy the scissor type, but I suggest that you invest in a 1. Whatever type you buy, make sure that the jack is suited to your car's body design. To determine the type of jack you need and to find out how to use the jack that came with the vehicle, check your owner's manual or ask someone at an auto parts store.
Check your jack periodically and lubricate it. Never use a jack without the base plate, and never jack up your car unless the wheels are properly blocked. You can find instructions and safety tips for using a jack and changing a tire in Chapter 1. Make sure that your jack is in the trunk of your car at all times. It's very depressing to know how to change a flat, only to find when a flat occurs that your jack is in your garage and your car is on the road. Chapter 2: The Way to Your Car's Heart Is through Your Toolbox Tool kits If, as you read this chapter, you're made painfully aware that you're going to have to go out and buy practically everything, you may want to look into prepackaged tool kits.
Nearly every major supplier carries an inexpensive basic automotive tool kit with everything you need for maintenance and minor repairs already in it. If you're totally tool-poor, one of these may prove to be the best buy. Make sure that you're getting good quality, however. It's better to have a couple of tools that work well than to have a large assortment of junk. While I'm on the subject empty toolboxes are inexpensive and worth buying. They keep tools clean and in good shape, and, most important, all in one place.
Look for a lightweight, plastic toolbox that fits easily into the trunk of your car. Although your tools are useful around the house, it's nice to have them handy if you get stuck away from home. Jack Stands If you plan to work under your vehicle, you also need a pair of jack stands refer to Figure in Chapter 1. With these, you jack up the car, place the jack stands under the car close to where the jack is, and then remove the jack so that the weight of the vehicle rests on the jack stands, and not on the jack, which can collapse or roll over.
The stands keep the car off the ground with less danger of slipping and enable you to jack up more than one side of the vehicle at a time. Get two jack stands and read the instructions in Chapter 1 before you use them. A jack can do the same thing, so if you're going to work under your vehicle and you will if you plan to do your own lube jobs , be sure to buy a pair of jack stands. The money you save by getting under there yourself will easily pay for the stands in no time.
Creepers If you're going to spend a lot of time under your vehicle, you may want a creeper, which is basically just a board with casters under it. You lie on it and move around easily. Part I: Getting Started. Figure A creeper makes working under your car more comfortable. If you're good at carpentry, you can make a creeper yourself from some plywood and a couple of old roller-skate wheels.
If you're fed up with buying things, try lying on an old bedboard or a ratty old blanket instead. If you're not yet game for a lot of under-the-car work and you just want to change your tires, change your oil, and be done with it, forget about the creeper and just be sure that you have a jack and jack stands that work properly, and that you know how to use them safely see Chapter 1.
Your owner's manual can tell you how to operate the jack that came with your vehicle, or you can take the jack to an auto supply store and ask someone there to show you how it works. Fire Extinguishers A fire extinguisher isn't really a tool, but it's a must for your vehicle. An engine fire won't necessarily ruin your car — if you can extinguish it quickly. A gasoline leak can be ignited by a stray spark from your spark plug wires. The resulting fire looks awful, but it's really burning on the outside of your engine.
If you put it out quickly, your vehicle may suffer little or no damage. Cigarette butts can also land on your backseat, causing a fire, and fires can be caused by ruptured fuel lines, flooded carburetors, and faulty wiring as well, so an inexpensive fire extinguisher may not only save you money; it may also save your life.
If the flames are anywhere near the fuel tank, forget the heroics; just run for it and throw yourself to the ground if you think that the tank may explode. Because your fuel tank is located right under your trunk compartment, keep your extinguisher under the front seat of your car, in a suitable bracket that will prevent it from rolling under the pedals when you stop the car.
Steal a large one from the kitchen, or buy one at an auto supply or hardware store. Either metal or plastic is fine. Just be sure to clean it thoroughly after each use. Some automotive funnels come with a short hose attached so that you can insert the hose directly into a narrow opening in a space that's too small for the funnel to fit into. Get rid of gasoline-soaked rags — they're highly combustible.
Never keep them in closed places. Don't use an oily rag on anything that isn't oily already. Because your car contains a variety of substances that must be kept away from other substances, throw out or wash dirty rags, and use a clean one each time you start a job.
Keep a clean, lint-free rag in your glove compartment; you'll need it to wipe your oil or transmission dipstick. W Spare parts: If you replace your spark plugs and your points, save the old ones if they're not too worn.
Carry them in your trunk compartment toolbox for quick replacements if something goes wrong with those in your engine. Just be sure to replace these substitutes with new ones immediately, because they won't hold up well. The same goes for old, not-too-cruddy air filters, rotors, and other minor gizmos. A couple of extra nuts, bolts, and screws also help, in case you lose the ones you have or strip them accidentally.
W Spare tire: Check your spare tire often. It's humiliating to go through the work of changing a tire only to find that your spare is flat, too. If your spare is worn beyond belief, most garages will sell you a not-too-hidebus secondhand tire at a low price. Make sure that it's the right size. You use it to remove the wheel or lug nuts when you change your tires. If you buy a lug wrench, get the cross-shaft kind, which gives you more leverage.
If you're in this situation, you can either wait for the AAA or a nearby garage to come and bail you out, or, if you're in a safe, well-populated area, you can stop a passing car, whip out your jumper cables shown in Figure , attach them in seconds, and "jump a start" from the Good Samaritan's car to your own.
Most people are willing to lend their cars to this sort of operation because they lose nothing but a few minutes of their time, but it's up to you to decide whether you want to risk getting car-jacked if the Good Samaritan turns out to be a devil in disguise. Chapter 21 has instructions for the proper way to jump a start. You can buy a set of jumper cables for much less than you'd have to pay a garage to send someone to start your car.
Good cables cost more because they have more strands of better-conducting wire, which let more "juice" flow between the vehicles with less loss of voltage. Sometimes the success or failure of an attempt to jump a start depends on the quality of the jumper cables and their grips. If you get a cheap set, here's an easy way to make them work better: Go under the plastic sheath that covers the place where the cables meet the grips and squeeze the connection tight with a pair of pliers.
Doing so improves the connection, and sometimes the cheap set of cables works beautifully — at least for the first few times. The best way to stay out of trouble is to pay a little extra for a quality set of cables.
Snow and ice equipment: If you live in an area that's cold in winter, try to carry tire chains or a bag of sand in case you find yourself dealing with icy conditions.
Rock salt is no longer used for this purpose because it corrodes metal and is considered an environmental hazard. A small shovel may prove useful for digging your tires out, and a scraper can clear your windshield if you've been parked in the snow and it's iced over. A can of de-icing fluid is useful in icy weather.
Flashlights and reflectors: A flashlight is always a good addition to your glove compartment. It can help your kids locate dropped toys on the floor of the car, enable you to see under the hood if your car breaks down, and serve as an emergency light for oncoming traffic if you have to stop on the road for repairs.
A flashlight with a red blinker is safest for this purpose. Of course, you have to be sure to put in fresh batteries now and then or to carry a couple of extras. An inexpensive set of reflector triangles can save your life by making your stopped vehicle visible on the road. You can use flares, but they can be dangerous, and many states have rules regarding their use on highways.
First-aid kit: It's a good idea to keep a first-aid kit in your workshop and in your vehicle. Choose one that's equipped with a variety of bandages, tweezers, surgical tape, antibiotic ointment, something soothing for burns, and a good antiseptic. You can find one of these kits for very little money at a drugstore or an auto parts store. Hand cleaner: Most hand cleaners are basically grease solvents.
They range from heavy-duty stuff that removes the skin along with the grease, to soothing, good-smelling creams that leave your skin feeling reborn, to precleaners that you put on your hands before you start working so that the grease slides off easily afterward. Some of these cleaners can also be rubbed into work clothes to remove grease and oil stains before you launder them. Gloves: Keep a pair of gloves in the car for emergencies. Thin, tough, and comfortable dishwashing gloves are available at any discount store or supermarket.
They cost little and keep the grease from under your fingernails. One problem, however, is that gasoline or solvent may melt them. If you prefer, industrial rubber gloves, available at swimming pool supply stores, aren't affected by gasoline, solvent, or battery acid. Spare tools: If you can't carry your toolbox in your car all the time, try to leave a couple of screwdrivers, some standard-size combination wrenches, an adjustable wrench, and a can of penetrating oil in your trunk compartment.
Some very handy gizmos that combine a variety of basic tools into one all-purpose, weird-looking instrument are also available. Hat: To keep the dust and grease out of your hair, and to prevent long hair from being caught in moving parts, wear a hat that you can afford to get dirty. A wooly watch cap or a baseball hat worn backwards works just fine. Cellular phone: This device is useful when you're stuck on a road somewhere with a dead car or when you have an accident.
You can call your loved ones or friends for help or call the auto club some cell phones have an AAA or call button or the police. Miscellaneous stuff: A roll of duct tape, a roll of electrician's tape, a sharp knife, and scissors also come in handy.
Chapter 2: The Way to Your Car's Heart Is through Your Toolbox Toot Checklist Table on the following page is a handy checklist to help you keep track of what you have, what you need, and what you think you can do without.
Photocopy the page and take it to the store. Asterisked tools are optional, but definitely worth buying. Tools with two asterisks are only for vehicles with non-electronic ignitions. C2 Part I: Getting Started. These people habitually walk around their cars, kicking the tires to make sure that they aren't flat, before they get in and drive off. These same people habitually open and close all the cabinet doors in the kitchen and check the gas jets to make sure that they're completely off every time they go past the stove.
We tend to laugh at them, yet they're probably rarely caught with flat tires, open cabinets, or leaking gas. You can learn from these people and make a habit of checking the little things under the hood of your car — maybe not every time you go somewhere, but definitely once a month and before starting out on long trips. If you need more motivation, check out the sidebar "The benefits of a well-maintained car.
After he changed his spark plugs and serviced his distributor, his mileage increased from 10 miles per gallon to He was so impressed that, the next weekend, he changed his radiator hoses, fixed a windshield-washer pump that had gotten stuck, and became a confirmed do-it-yourselfer. This was a relief to me, because I had visions of taking care of two cars, and that's one cartoo many foraworking girl — unless she's a garage mechanic!
Then what you need to check regularly is anything that can run out of fluid, lose air, jiggle loose, or fray after use — in other words, things like accessory belts, tire pressure, and coolant level. This chapter explains what to look for, how to look for it, and what to do if you discover that something needs to be replaced or refilled.
I've provided a Maintenance Record sheet at the back of this book. Make a copy for each of your vehicles to keep track of what you check and what you replace. You'll find a Specifications Record at the back of the book as well. To avoid having to return parts that don't fit your vehicle, just make a copy of this "spec sheet" for each of your vehicles, fill in the appropriate part numbers, and take it with you to the auto supply store.
Once a month, in the morning, before you've driven your car, arm yourself with a clean,'lint-free rag and the tools mentioned in this chapter and open the hood of your vehicle. If you've never done that, see "How to Open the Hood" in Chapter 1.
Then check the items in the sections that follow. It may take longer the first time you do it, but after that you should be able to whip through this check in about 15 minutes. If the coolant, oil, transmission, brake, or power-steering fluid level is very low, fill it to the proper level and check it again in a couple of days. If it's low again, ask a mechanic to find out why you're losing fluid and correct the problem.
In carbureted engines, the air cleaner is usually large and round with a snorkel sticking out of the side to facilitate the intake of fresh air. Some fuel-injected engines also have a round air cleaner; others use a rectangular one.
If you unscrew the wing nut on the lid of your air cleaner and undo any other devices that hold it down, you'll find the air filter inside. To see whether your air filter needs to be replaced, just lift it out it isn't fastened down and hold it up to the sun or to a strong light. Can you see the light streaming through it? If not, try dropping it lightly, bottom side down, on a hard surface. Doing so should jar some dirt loose.
Don't blow through the filter — you can foul it up that way. If the filter is still too dirty to see through after you've dropped it a few times, you need a new one. Chapter 13 has instructions for buying and replacing air filters. PCV valve C7 Part I: Getting Started Because the air filter extracts dirt and dust particles from the air, you should change it at least once a year or every 20, miles, whichever comes first — unless yours gets very dirty before then.
If you do most of your driving in a dusty or sandy area, you may need to replace your air filter more often. Check the Accessory Belts Take a look at all the belts see Figures and that drive the fan, the alternator, and other parts of your car.
If any of the belts "gives" more than half an inch when you press on it, you may be able to adjust it if it is otherwise in good condition.
If a belt is cracked or frayed inside or outside, or if the inside surface is glazed and shiny, you should replace it. Chapter 14 has instructions for adjusting and replacing accessory belts.
Figure Accessory belts. Figure Serpentine multiaccessory drive belt. Check the Serpentine Mutti-Accessory Jbriife Belt In most modern vehicles, a single, long, flat drive belt shown in Figure drives all the engine accessories. This belt winds its way around every accessory pulley, and on the way winds tightly around a "tensioner" pulley that keeps the belt to the correct tension.
In cases where it is possible to adjust the tensioner, you usually find something that indicates the correct belt tension. It isn't easy to figure out whether a belt is at the right tension just by looking at it, but if the belt is loose, you will hear squeaky noises when you accelerate sharply. With the hood up and the emergency brake on, have a friend accelerate the engine while you listen. Be sure to keep your hair and clothing away from the belt. If the belt squeaks, have a professional replace both the belt and the tensioner because, in many cases, radiators and air conditioning condensers may have to be removed to allow access to the belt.
Check the Battery The battery is part of the ignition system and stores electrical current that your car uses to start. The battery also passes electricity along to the parts of your vehicle that need electricity to function. For more information about the ignition system in general and the battery in particular, see Chapters 5 and A battery, like other parts of your car, is subject to wear and tear and should be checked regularly.
In particular, you want to pay attention to the battery's trouble spots, shown in Figure A battery that's kept clean and filled with water should last a long time. If you have a battery with removable caps or bars on top, remove them. These days, most batteries are sealed. Never open a battery with a lit cigarette in your mouth. For that matter, never smoke while working around your car!
Batteries are filled with an acid that generates hydrogen gas, so you want to be careful when working around them. If you get the liquid on your skin or clothes, wash it off with water immediately. If your battery is not sealed, look inside the battery.
If you have a sealed battery, you won't be able to do this, so disregard Step 3 and move on to Step 4. If the liquid inside the battery doesn't reach the tops of the plates, add distilled water or water with a low mineral content until it covers them. Be very careful not to add liquid past the top of the fins inside the battery. If you see powdery deposits on the terminals, clean them off. The cruddy deposits that form in lovely colors on the top of your terminals are made by battery acid.
Before you clean this stuff off, remove the cables from the positive terminal and negative terminal by undoing the nut on each cable clamp and wiggling the cable until the clamp comes off the terminal post.
Always remove the cable clamp from the negative terminal first. It's the one that's marked with a - sign. Replace the positive cable first and the negative cable last. If you attempt to remove the positive clamp first and your wrench slips and touches something metal, your wrench can fuse to the part like an arc welder.
Brush the deposits off the terminal posts and cable clamps with an old toothbrush or disposable nonmetallic brush and a mixture of baking soda and water. Sprinkle the baking soda straight from the little yellow box that keeps your refrigerator smelling nice, dip the brush in water, and scrub the deposits away. P a r t l: Getting Started If your cables and clamps won't clean up completely with baking soda and water, rotate a round battery terminal cleaner brush see Figure on each terminal to shine it up and ensure a good, solid electrical connection.
You can also shine up the insides of the cable clamps by using the clamp cleaner that is usually sold as one unit with the terminal brush. If you can't find these brushes, use a soapless steel wool pad. Figure A battery terminal brush and clamp cleaner. Dry everything off with a clean, disposable, lint-free rag. Try to avoid getting the powdery stuff on your hands or clothes, but if you do, just wash it off with water right away, and neither you nor your clothes will be damaged.
To prevent these corrosive deposits from forming again, coat the terminals with grease or petroleum jelly. Examine the battery cables and clamps to see whether they are badly frayed or corroded. If the damage looks extensive, the cables and clamps should probably be replaced; otherwise, the battery may short-circuit and could damage onboard computers. In most modern cars, computers control the engine fuel and ignition systems and automatic transmission functions.
When messing about with batteries and their cables, be extremely careful not to make a mistake and inadvertently send a shot of unwanted voltage into one of the computers and destroy it. They're not cheap to replace! Carefully remove and replace battery cables, always removing the negative cable first and replacing it last. Chapter 3: Preventive Maintenance: A Monthly Under-the-Hood Check If you don't want to lose all those precious radio presets when you disconnect the battery, you can make a cheap tool with a cigarette lighter socket and a 9-volt battery.
Most electronics stores can set this up for you. Plug the 9-volt battery into your cigarette lighter socket before disconnecting the battery, and when you're done, you'll still have all those radio presets. That process also helps maintain memory for your onboard computers for your engine and transmission. Take these precautions: Tie the cables back while you're working on the battery so that they don't flop back over onto the terminals.
Always remove the negative cable if you plan to work on wiring under the hood. Do not allow anything made of metal to connect the terminal posts; this can damage the battery.
And if the cables are connected to the posts at the time, you can destroy the onboard computers. If you've been having trouble starting your car, if your headlights seem dim, or if the battery is old and has bars or caps that you can remove and look inside, buy a battery tester see Figure and use it to check whether the battery acid concentration is high enough.
Figure Battery tester. These testers cost only a few dollars. You simply draw some of the battery fluid electrolyte into the tester and look at the floating balls inside it. A scale on the tester tells you the condition of the battery fluid.
If you get a very low reading, you can try having the battery refilled and recharged at a service station. If they tell you that your battery should be replaced, replace it. It's no fun to get caught with a dead battery, because you can't drive to the store to get a new one! Part I: Getting Started If you have a sealed battery and you own or can borrow a voltmeter, attach it across the battery terminals red to positive and black to negative.
With all accessories off and the battery at 70 degrees Fahrenheit, the voltage reading should be Or just stop off at your local service station and have them test the battery. Check the battery case and the terminals. If you see major cracks in the battery case or obvious terminal damage, the battery should be replaced regardless of its electrical performance. When replacing the battery, buy a new one with a reputable brand name at an auto parts store, battery service, or department store; don't risk getting stranded by a cheap battery that malfunctions.
But don't overbuy, either; it's foolish to put an expensive battery with a five-year guarantee in a vehicle that you intend to get rid of in a year or two.
Don't just dump your old battery into the trash, where it's a hazard to the environment. Because batteries are recyclable, you can trade in your old battery for a discount on the price of a new one and walk away content knowing that the old one will be back in service before long. Check the Radiator The radiator cools your engine and needs water and coolant sometimes called antifreeze to function. Chapter 8 familiarizes you with the parts of the cooling system and how they work; Chapter 14 tells you how to flush your cooling system and do minor repairs on it; and Chapter 21 tells you what to do if your car overheats on the road.
Use plain water only in an emergency. Most modern engines have aluminum cylinder heads, which require the protective anticorrosive properties of antifreeze to prevent corrosion. Never add coolant to a hot engine! If you need to add more liquid, wait until the engine has cooled down to avoid the possibility of being burned or cracking your engine block. To check the level of the liquid in your cooling system and add more, if necessary, do the following: ' If your car has a coolant recovery system a plastic bottle connected to the radiator that holds an extra supply of liquid, shown in Figure in Chapter 8 : There's no need to open the radiator cap.
Want more? Advanced embedding details, examples, and help! Publication date Topics Automobiles -- Maintenance and repair -- Amateurs' manuals. Donor bostonpubliclibrary Edition 2nd rev. There are no reviews yet. Be the first one to write a review. Books for People with Print Disabilities.
Internet Archive Books.
0コメント